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GRAPE - ETNA BIANCO

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Beautiful landscape of Etna Volcano

Italy’s Hottest Wine-Production Zone: The Etna Volcano

“Etna area has become, without question, Italy’s single hottest wine-production zone”
Blessed with consistently bright sunshine and reliably moderate rainfall, the classic Mediterranean climate here is ideally suited to the needs of wine-bearing grapevines. Add that to the small number of the island’s soils and the hilly landscape in which they sit and the resulting terroir is almost perfect for growing not just vines, but also the cereals, olives and citrus fruits which remain the island’s key exports today.

Etna DOC was formed in 1968, and is comprised of the surrounding hills of Catania and the slopes of the Etna volcano. Mount Etna is the most active volcano in Sicily at just under 11,000 feet and is often capped with snow. Mount Etna of Sicily, called “Island on the Island” by the locals, is classified as a young shield volcano at the bottom, but an ancient stratovolcano (also referred to as a composite volcano) at its peak. This causes it to produce two types of eruptions – explosive and fluid basaltic lava flows, creating nutrient-dense volcanic soils.

Soil Composition

As the first Italian wine DOC, ages of this volcanic and seismic activity have created a soil with amazing diversity. The andesitic magma from these volcanoes enriches the soil composition with beneficial levels of iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, and potassium. Among these components is a high percentage of extremely fine sand, which has allowed many of Etna Bianco vineyards to fight off Phylloxera at the turn of the twentieth century. As a result, there are vines that are on their original and un-grafted rootstock, which is a rarity in Italy.

The steep terrain of a Mount Etna vineyard

The graduated topography creates a smooth spread of micro-terroirs, as the land climbs up from near-sea-level to more than 3,940 feet. The highest of Etna’s vineyards now rank among the highest in Italy (and even the world). Because of these micro-terroirs, the soil composition of Etna vineyards depends on which side of the volcano it is produced. To the north, volcanic soils mixed with white sand are found; while in the east there is mainly steep, precipitous soil (40%). The resulting low yields there bring exceptionally high-quality wines.
Experimenting with vineyard sites further and further up the volcano’s slopes, Etna wine producers are investigating the effects of the richer, blacker soils as well as the increase in altitude.

Etna Bianco Grape

Quality

This steep terrain combined with the sandy volcanic soil makes tending the vines quite difficult. It is hard for a worker to keep from falling, especially during harvest when carrying baskets of harvested berries. The work is so difficult it is often problematic employing harvest workers.
Luckily, none of these difficulties have ever harmed the excellent quality of the wines produced by the vines that hug the slopes of the volcano. The grapevines at these high elevations benefit from the hot Mediterranean sun while the warm Mediterranean breezes are conducive to an extended growing season.

Regional Variations

North

ost prominent area for Etna Rosso. The strong Northern sun exposure would usually be a disadvantage, but the presence of the Alcantara River and the Nebrodi Mountains a valley favorable for vineyard cultivation and the growth of high quality grapes. The northern border, is represented by the right bank of the Alcantara River to the town of Randazzo.

The terrain is volcanic and terraced. The ancient cultivation methods are what sustain the balance of the environment. The volcanic, sandy terrain is characterized by the stones generated by the disintegration of the lava from old volcano explosions. The ground changes continually, shallow and fertile at some points or deep with volcanic rock emerging in others.

Climate change is fast and unexpected in this area and is impacted by dramatic changes in temperature between day and night. Vines can only be cultivated by hand, with small non-invasive agricultural vehicles or by mule.

Etna Rosso Grape

Etna Bianco Grape

East & South-East

Renowned area for the production of Etna Bianco. The proximity to the sea, remarkable rainfall, and altitude allows for Eastern vineyards to develop mountainous wines with strong Nordic profiles. Due to these exceptionally high altitudes, some red berries have difficulty getting to full ripeness, allowing for powerful flavors not common in white varietals.

Characterized by the presence of mountainous reliefs that result from extinguished volcanic cones. These volcanic cones cause the soil to vary dramatically from other areas of Etna affected by different eruptions. The southern sun exposure also provides vines with ample sun for development.

South

The southern slope of Mount Etna houses the highest vineyards of the volcano, and perhaps of Europe, which in certain districts exceed altitudes of 1,000 meters. Towns of this side such as Adrano, Biancavilla, and Belpasso are areas where Nerello Mascalese is the most widespread vine.

More sheltered by the influences of the sea, this area is less influenced by the southern sun exposure than the south east. With soil that is a compilation of multiple eruptions from different time periods, the varietal characteristics vary dramatically. In most parts of the South zones, the soils were formed by the crumbling of one or more types of lava in different ages and by different eruptive materials such as lapilli, ash, and sands. The crumbling state and composition of the lava and eruptive materials have given the southern Etna very fine soil.

This is the least known wine-growing area of Etna, but is recently providing great viticultural surprises and may become an up-and-coming area.

Nerello Vineyard

Flavor Profile

Primary - Grape Influences

Etna Bianco is generally a pale-yellow color, floral, mineral, light and fresh.
The Mediterranean Sea is key in the ripening of grapes growing at high altitudes, by reflecting the intense Sicilian sunshine back up onto the vines (similar to the effect seen on Geneva in Switzerland and along the Mosel in Germany), making it possible to ripen grapes further up than would be possible in a landlocked area. These elevations make it possible to ripen grapes further up than would be possible in a landlocked area. The sea also serves to moderate temperatures here at a latitude of 37 degrees; far from the coolest of European wine regions. Importantly, there is also a considerable variation between night and day temperatures at these elevations. Such temperature variations work to the benefit of grapes in that it not only facilitates berry growth and coloration, but also promotes complexity in grape flavors. At lower elevations, there are less lava flows, creating riper grapes and producing sweeter wines with less flavors or spice.
The high mineral content of the soil adds a saline flavor to the wines produced here, such as Carricante, a white grape variety. The acidity in the wines, included the blended varieties of Catarratto, Minella, and Trebbiano, provides a “surprisingly fresh and vibrant taste.”
Etna Bianco DOC is comprised of a minimum of 60% Carricante and up to 40% of the blend can be made up of Cattarato, Inzolia, Minnella Bianca, Grecanico, Chardonnay and other local varieties. Etna Bianco is generally a pale-yellow color, floral, mineral, light and fresh. Some are made 100% Carricante and will be labeled with the name of the cultivar.

"Carricante is described as very refined and pure in mineral aromas and racy lemony flavors, complicated by aniseed, green apple, orange flower, chamomile and unripe apricot."

 

Carricante grows exclusively on the volcanic slopes of Etna, clasping crooked crags where little else thrives; attempts starting in at least the nineteenth century to transplant it elsewhere on the island have not fared well. Carricante is really a one-zone variety, as it is found only on the slopes of the Etna volcano, in the countryside around towns such as Viagrande, Randazzo, and others. It grows at extremely high altitudes (where Nerello Mascalese – used in Etna Rosso — has trouble ripening), on both the easter and the southern slopes of the volcano, at altitudes of 950 meters above sea level and 1,050 meters above sea level respectively.

Secondary - Fermentation Influences

The secondary influences on Etna Bianco are specific to the producer. Most often, winemakers will use stainless steel tanks as their fermentation containers of choice for Etna Bianco. The absence of oak barrels, allows the grapes to be the main flavor focus.
Etna Bianco’s alcoholic fermentation extends for 14 days at temperatures most often between 54-57°F. Because Etna Bianco is a white wine, the alcoholic fermentation occurs longer than for red varieties, allowing for sweeter flavors to arise.
The common maceration technique used for Etna Bianco is the pump-over method, also known as remontage. This is the process of pumping white wine up from the bottom of the tank and splashing it over the top of the fermenting must, allowing the skins to submerge so that the carbon dioxide is pushed to the surface of the must and released. The length of this process is 2 to 4 days, depending on desired flavor impact.
Malolactic fermentation is also commonly allowed in the production of Etna Bianco. Malolactic fermentation allows the tart-tasting malic acid that is naturally present in grape must, to be converted into a softer-tasting lactic acid. Once the primary fermentation process is complete, malolactic fermentation is most often performed secondarily, allowing a more buttery flavor to be emitted.
It is one of only a handful of Italian whites that ages well, benefiting from ten years or more. Etna Bianco Superiore must be a minimum of 80% Carricante with 20% of the blend being made up of the same group listed above for Etna Bianco DOC.
Common secondary aromas and flavors brought from these fermentation methods are pear and hay. Expect a long, textural finish when enjoying an Etna Bianco wine.

Wine Style

Etna Bianco is a food wine or enjoyed by the glass because of the silkiness and softness.

Vintages

  • 2016: Heady stone fruit, Spanish broom, and Mediterranean brush aromas release within a few swirls around the glass. The vibrant palate delivers green apple, lemon, tangerine, and white peach flavors framed by crisp acidity. Nice length and a hint of ginger that caps the finish.
  • 2015: This opens with aromas suggesting aromatic herb, hay, yellow flower, and a light balsamic note.  The bright, restrained palate offers lime, lemon peel, and sage while a mineral note signals the close.
  • 2014: Initially rather shy, this eventually reveals delicate scents of fragrant flower, orchard fruit, and a whiff of citrus. The linear palate is a bit austere, offering yellow apple skin, lime, and a mineral note alongside firm acidity.
  • 2013: Elegant and structured, this opens with delicate aromas of Spanish broom, pear, and Mediterranean herb. The linear, vibrant palate delivers juicy green apple, creamy pear, and citrus alongside an energizing mineral and crisp acidity. This will continue to develop. Drink through 2020.
  • 2012: Offers heady aromas of Spanish Broom, linden blossom and white stone fruit. The bright palate offers yellow apple unripe peach, lemon zest, and mineral alongside refreshing acidity.
  • 2011: Opens with aromas of yellow flower, acacia, Mediterranean herb, and just a slight whiff of petrol. The palate delivers mature green apple, citrus, mineral, oregano, and aniseed balanced by bright acidity.
  • 2010: An attractive fragrance of white flower, stone fruit, apple, and a whiff of smoke opens this linear wine. This bright palate offers dried citrus, Golden Delicious apple and mineral alongside brisk acidity.
  • 2009: Intense aromas of Spanish broom, lychee, beeswax, pear, and a hint of petrol lead the nose. The multifaceted palate delivers citrus, green apple, stone fruit, mineral, and dried herb alongside firm acidity. This compelling wine continuously evolves in the glass.
  • 2008: A fresh and pungent wine with crisp aromas of kiwi and stone fruit framed by focused mineral etchings.

Etna vineyard dormant season

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